Monday, June 28, 2010

Happy Meals

Top Chef - Season 7, Episode 2

Previously on Top Chef: Seventeen chefs invaded the nation's capital, intent on making their views on foreign policy and financial reform known. What's that? Oh. Sorry, I was misinformed. Seventeen chefs invaded the nation's capital so they could win the title of Top Chef. Tiffany wanted to score for the sisters. Angelo racked up $20,000 in the Quickfire and won the Elimination Challenge on top of it, but was acutely aware that Kenny will always be nipping at his heels. The judges were completely turned off by the unappetizing mess that John presented. And that was just his hair. His food failed, too, and he became the first chef punted home. Sixteen chefs remain. Who will be eliminated tonight?

Opening menu. A bunch of local restaurants are presenting three courses for $25 right now, and it seemed a good opportunity to try someplace new. I didn't realize that I ordered gulf shrimp as the appetizer until after I finished it. Here's hoping I didn't just suck down a mouthful of crude. The wine was good, though. Speaking of which... Rule #2: Take a drink whenever someone says "It is what it is," or "At the end of the day..." Really, you could apply this rule to daily life as well, but you'd be too plastered to hold down a job.

Monday Morning Quarterback session. Nobody really cares about John's elimination much. Ed feels a little bad for him, but wants to win, so "it is what it is". DRINK! Andrea robustly approves of Jacqueline throwing a mass of butter into a pan of whatever she's cooking, and interviews that she's ready to take Angelo down.

Quickfire Challenge. The chefs are met in the Kitchen by Padma and this week's guest judge, Sam Kass, who is an assistant chef at the White House. Nice! Plus, he's kind of dreamy. Padma tells everyone that a well-run government is bipartisan. Once the laughter subsides, she explains the rules of this week's Quickfire. The chefs will be paired up to make a sandwich together in half an hour, with the winning team getting immunity. Tamesha is suspicious, because no sandwich should take thirty minutes to make, unless you're Dagwood Bumstead. The chefs pull knives to determine their teammates:

-Kenny/Ed
-Angelo/Tracey
-Arnold/Kelly
-Amanda/Tamesha
-Lynne/Tiffany
-Stephen/Jacqueline
-Tim/Alex
-Kevin/Andrea

Once everyone is paired up, Padma tells them there will be a twist, which nobody is surprised by in the least. They probably didn't expect this development, though. The chefs will be yoked together by a double-wide apron, and each of them will only be able to use one arm. Tim wonders what kind of ganja the challenge designers are passing around. Padma starts the clock, and the chefs raid the apron box.

Tiffany: "They're all thinking about how happy they are that they don't have to be tethered to that guy with the dreadlocks."

Kenny and Ed are happy to discover that they can both use their dominant hands. Tracey couldn't be more pleased to ride Angelo's coattails. Amanda offers to roshambo Tamesha for the right-side position. Hahahaha! Looks like she loses that particular challenge, though happily, nobody got punched in the baby makers. Alex is petrified that Tim is about to chop off his fingers. Stephen and Jacqueline pound their chicken. Ew, not like that, you filthy bugger. Everyone gets into a groove, and makes good progress on their sandwiches. Time runs out, and Padma and Sam go down the line.

Angelo and Tracey's sandwich has flounder that has been steeped in fish sauce, with pickled red onions, some herbs, and a Sriracha mayonnaise. Sounds good. Andrea and Kevin have a Philly-style Cuban sandwich, with roasted pork, whole grain mustard, pickle, and Gruyere cheese. WANT. "I like that pickle in there," Sam approves.

Viewing Party: "That's what she said."

Amanda and Tamesha have a grilled sandwich with prosciutto, Swiss cheese, Dijon mustard, and a pepper salsa. Tim and Alex have both had classic French training, so they've done a variation on a croque-madame, with ground lamb, Mornay sauce, and egg. There's a piece of bread on the plate, which is the only way I can fathom this being even slightly related to a "sandwich":

Photobucket


Stephen and Jacqueline have a chicken sandwich with saba vinegar onions, California avocado, and some rosemary stalks acting as toothpicks to hold everything together. Kenny and Ed have made a Korean chili-rubbed ahi tuna, with a cucumber and mango slaw, on a slice of multi-grain bread. Again, let's take a look in wonderment at how this can be called a "sandwich":

Photobucket


Kelly and Arnold have a curry-rubbed grilled chicken with honey and sambal, topped with cucumber, mint, dill, and cilantro. Lynne and Tiffany have made a flatbread saltimbocca, with goat cheese, artichokes, peppers, and white asparagus. Sam complains that it's too difficult to pick up. Yes, this...

Photobucket


...is a real chore, while Kenny and Ed's fairly leaps into one's mouth. Not that I'm ever going to accuse anyone of bending over backwards to reward or excuse Kenny based on the fact that he'll make for good television this season. Perish the thought.

Results. The bottom chefs are Stephen/Jacqueline, who were both in the bottom of last week's Elimination Challenge as well. The other chefs must sense blood in the water. Sam didn't like their lack of creativity, because they just used white bread. That's it? No problem with the flavors, but they're at the bottom of the entire heap because they used a non-exotic bread? Joining them in the bottom are Lynne and Tiffany, because a sandwich should never be something SANDWICHED between two slices of bread; they should all be open-faced platters of stuff, like Kenny's! Sheesh. It's a good thing Sam is cute, because he's not very good at this whole judge thing. Speaking of which, Kenny/Ed and Angelo/Tracey are the two top sandwiches, because the producers asked for them to be. I'm sorry, because they were really good. The ultimate winner of the challenge and immunity is... Angelo and Tracey. Wow, three in a row for Angelo! This is shaping up to be quite a seazzzz.....

Elimination Challenge. Padma tells the chefs that they'll be taking on an important issue. Sam explains that the chefs will be making a school lunch in order to bring light to the childhood obesity epidemic sweeping the nation. Well, "sweeping" is too fast. Lazily dragging itself across the nation. Public schools have a very restrictive budget, and the chefs will have it no easier. They'll get $2.60 per student, and will have to feed fifty students. Not only that, but the meal can't be standard school fare, meaning fat, fat, starch, and sugar. The chefs will have to incorporate fruits and vegetables into a main dish, a couple of sides, and dessert. Oh, and it has to be good. Unless you're Kenny. Sorry, am I getting ahead of myself? The already-partnered chefs will coalesce into four teams of four, and have two and half hours to prep before heading to the school, where they're allowed another hour to get everything ready. Everyone is responsible for creating at least one dish; no Jenc-style supervising allowed.

As winners of the Quickfire, Angelo and Tracey get to choose the other two chefs they'll work with. They're no fools, and quickly team up with Kenny and Ed. Not only do they acquire someone they know to be a good competitor, but if something goes south, Kenny has a much better chance of being eliminated. Kenny, himself recognizes this, saying that being on a losing team would increase his chances of going home from 25% to 50%. Unless of course, he were protected by forces outside of the challenge rules. But that would never happen. Everyone else forms teams, which turn out to be:

Angelo/Tracey/Ed/Kenny
Lynne/Tiffany/Kelly/Arnold
Andrea/Kevin/Alex/Tim
Amanda/Tamesha/Jacqueline/Stephen

Menu planning begins. The Andrea/Kevin/Alex/Tim team seems fairly confident, since three of them have kids, and know what they like. Tracey wants to take known kid favorites, like chicken nuggets, and healthy them up. They seem to be on the right track, right up until three seconds later when they declare celery with peanut butter in it to be a healthy vegetable. I honestly don't even know how they deluded themselves into that one. Speaking of ridiculously bad ideas, Amanda is trying to sell sherry-braised chicken thighs to her team. Because sherry is so 1) cheap and 2) appropriate for middle schoolers. She then slams Tamesha's gnocchi idea, because it would look weird. Tamesha is displeased. Jacqueline agrees to take on dessert, saying she'll make a chocolate banana pudding. Amanda, knowing how people who make desserts tend to wind up on this show, is thrilled to pass the buck. Jacqueline tearfully recalls having to take on the majority of childcare for her sister after her parents' divorce. That seemed a little tangential and wedged into the episode, but I certainly admire her for that sacrifice.

Tim wants to work with mac and cheese, while Kevin volunteers to make a melon dessert. Kelly is telling her team that "kids fucking love tacos". No argument here, plus it gives me something eminently quotable to spout for the next week. Kelly is really on a brainstorming roll, and Tiffany isn't so happy about it, interviewing that Kelly is trying to take control of the entire team. From what we've heard, all Kelly was talking about was her own contribution, so I really don't see some kind of Napoleonic takeover here.

Shopping. Amanda hilariously roams the aisles, calling out for someone to help her find the alcohol. When the teams approach the cashiers, they discover to their horror that they're heavily overbudget. Many ingredients have to be abandoned, though Amanda clings to her cooking sherry, so Jacqueline is forced to give up her chocolate. Andrea shrugs that this situation must occur in every school every day, so it's not an unreasonable challenge. I agree; I like the restrictions on this one.

Back at the Kitchen, the chefs get started on their prep time. Kelly's team still doesn't like that she's taking all the credit for her pork tacos, and I still don't really understand the animosity. Yes, she's being excessively me-me-me about it, but they were her idea, she's cooking them, and she's the only one getting judged on them. Andrea/Tim/Kevin/Alex are working together much more harmoniously. Kenny worries about the nutritional content of his team's menu. A little late to be grousing about it now. Where was this during the planning session? Amanda braises her chicken in the precious sherry. Jacqueline discovers that the bananas she's purchased are starchy, and decides that the best way to break down that starch is by adding a sackful of sugar. Amanda ignores Tamesha's suggestion that she use tomato paste in her chicken dish, and Tamesha interviews that she's also unhappy with Amanda's use of alcohol, hoping it doesn't land the team in the bottom four. Again, this is a concern that should have been raised in the planning session, and not now that it's far too late to do anything about it. Arnold is still pissed that Kelly is taking too much credit for her own dish. Time runs out.

That night, Kelly and Tracey sit outside and talk about how important it is that we teach kids healthy eating habits. They discuss this as they drink wine and smoke. Just sayin'. Tracey realizes that she's really going to have to nip her family's fast food habit in the bud. Read Fast Food Nation, Tracey. That's what pushed me over the edge. Meanwhile, the rest of Kelly's team is working up the courage to confront her over her pseudo-takeover. When she comes in from her smoke break, Arnold tells her that the menu was the entire team's idea, and that they all made contributions, so she should stop prefacing every description of the pork tacos with "I" statements. I still haven't seen any evidence that the tacos weren't completely her idea and her work, but that's not to say there isn't any. Kelly points out in interview that everyone has to stand in front of the judges and defend a single dish, but seems to get that she needs to make peace in the meantime. We get to more of the motive behind the spat when Arnold jabbers that he helped prep other things after his quick salsa was done, and is worried that the judges won't think he's done enough. Ah, the mask falls off. He probably wouldn't care at all about Kelly's tacos if he'd had a more work-intensive course.

The next day, the chefs head for the middle school for their last hour of prep time. There's not much space for sixteen chefs to run around preparing sixteen courses at the same time. Go figure. Angelo finds that the valve on his foam gun is broken, so he can't apply his peanut butter mousse to the celery. He goes to ask Kevin for use of his. Kevin brings up this request to his team. "No," Andrea says, and immediately turns to finish her work. I cannot do justice to the awesomeness of that "No". It was so free of venom, yet completely dismissive. It was a this-isn't-worth-even-a-moment-of-my-time response, and I kind of love Andrea for it. Ptom drops by to Ptimewaste, telling us that he's very sympathetic to schools' plight to serve affordable, nutritious meals. Which is why a side of French fries at his restaurant is twelve dollars.

Kelly's team is still passive-aggressively trying to position themselves, with Kelly making sure to tell Ptom that she's responsible for the pork tacos, and Arnold making sure to tell him that he's been a big overall helper. Ptom moves on to Kenny's team, reminding Kenny that should the team lose, Kenny's got a 50% chance of going home. You will be forgiven for noting that this is the second time that Kenny's precise mathematical odds of being eliminated have been mentioned aloud, and for putting a little bookmark in this moment. Stephen joins the ranks of the I Have An Idea Now That It's Too Late Club by disdaining Amanda's sherry, and wondering if they should change the name of the dish to mask its use of alcohol. Angelo is very proud of himself for lightening up his peanut butter mousse by putting milk in it and for using a piping bag instead of a foam gun. Wow, what a genius. Time runs out.

Students flood in for lunch. The judges soon follow, and walk up to the first team's table. "Chocolate milk, please!" Gail says in a trilling, innocent voice. She really is the best judge. I've said it all along. The first team is Andrea/Alex/Kevin/Tim, who have made cole slaw (with yogurt subbing for most of the mayonnaise), skinless barbecued chicken (with apple cider sweetening the sauce instead of sugar), a skim-milk, whole-wheat-crust, low-fat-cheese mac and cheese, and a melon dessert with whipped yogurt. Looks great. The judges have nothing but positive things to say about the meal, though the mac and cheese isn't as big a hit as the other courses.

Angelo/Kenny/Tracey/Ed have a chicken burger with rice. One of the sides is the peanut butter mousse in a tuile cracker with a tiny bit of celery on top. This is what they're calling their vegetable course?! Their other side is a sweet potato puree with cinnamon, and there's an apple bread pudding with cinnamon yogurt for dessert. The judges settle in to eat, Padma yanking the wrapping off of the regulation school spork. Ed's sweet potato puree is way too peppery. Kenny and Tracey's dishes are meh, while Angelo's would be fine if it weren't serving as the vegetable. Overall, the flavors were acceptable, but the menu as a whole was terrible.

The judges go up to Kelly/Lynne/Tiffany/Arnold next, and since credit is so important to this group, let's make sure we attribute the dishes correctly. Lynne made a black bean cake with crispy sweet potatoes. Kelly's got the braised pork carnitas tacos on an oatmeal tortilla with pickled onions and cilantro. Arnold made a roasted corn salad with tomatoes, cilantro lime vinaigrette, and some chili oil. Tiffany took on dessert, making sugar-free caramelized sweet potatoes and a light chocolate sherbet. The judges really like the entire meal, though Lynne's cake might be a little too spicy.

Finally, we have Amanda/Tamesha/Stephen/Jacqueline. Amanda happily presents her chicken thigh braised in sherry jus. Stephen has thrown together an extremely unimpressive rice with a few mixed vegetables stirred in. He mistakenly tells the judges that it has 165 grams of fat in it, before correcting himself to 165 calories. Heh. Tamesha has put together a bean and tomato salad with pickled red onions and an apple cider vinaigrette. Jacqueline's banana pudding was made with skim milk and has strawberries in it. The judges dig in. Gail is immediately surprised that a middle school lunch menu has sherry in it. Tamesha's salad is good, but Jacqueline's pudding is too starchy and too sweet. Both the judges and kids are as unimpressed with Stephen's rice as I am.

Lunch winds down. All the chefs seem secure in their own dishes. Kelly's still got a death grip on her taco idea, and I'm still mostly on her side. Padma talks to the kids about eating healthier. One of the girls is aghast to learn that she just ate pickled red onions. Padma doles out hugs to the star-struck girls and hormonally-infused guys. Back at Judges' Table, the chefs settle in for the fret 'n sweat. It doesn't take long for Kevin to doze off, and the others fall silent as he gently snores. He jerks awake, and everyone has a good laugh. Padma comes in, and asks to see Angelo/Kenny/Ed/Tracey and Amanda/Tamesha/Jacqueline/Stephen. The teams left behind are concerned, because everybody knows that the winning chefs are always called first. But, finally! Show history is made seven seasons in, as the losing chefs are the ones in front of the judges first tonight. Stephen's expectant smile is wiped away. Amanda is slack-jawed in horror.

Stephen wanted to put more vegetables in his rice, but had to sacrifice creativity to come in on budget. Similarly, Jacqueline had to pump two pounds of sugar into her pudding to break up the starch of the bananas, because the team couldn't afford the ingredients she wanted. The judges point out that having to work within a strict budget was the point of the challenge, and the team did not meet that challenge well. If there's money for sherry, there should be money for vegetables. Amanda is finally starting to understand that she had a less than stellar concept for her dish. Ed's sweet potato was way too spicy. Sam says that avoiding starch and sugar is a big part of trying to overhaul the health of school lunches, and the Kenny/Angelo/Tracey/Ed team really fell down on this aspect. Kenny tries to explain away the lack of vegetables by pointing out the roasted tomato on their burger, and Sam responds that tomato is a fruit. Rather than reigniting that old chestnut of a debate, I'll say that even if tomato were a vegetable, slapping one on a burger does not a vegetable course make.

We veer into more interesting territory when Ptom asks Angelo if he'd have slapped together a bit of celery as a vegetable course if he didn't have immunity. "I can't answer that right now," Angelo says. I really don't know what he means by that, whether it's something along the lines of "Yes, but I'm not going to confess," or "No, but I'm not going to sell my teammates out." It could go either way. Ptom attempts to clarify by saying that he's not suggesting Angelo sabotaged the team on purpose, but Angelo wriggles out of that line of conversation, saying that he would have happily done more of a vegetable had someone suggested it. Um, how about when the judges suggested it - or rather directly told you to include it? Not enough of a push? Kenny says he did think of adding more nutritious food, but was overruled.

Stephen, who has no business being part of this conversation, jumps in to twist the screw, saying that Kenny letting the vegetable issue slide is inexcusable. I don't know if I'm more pissed that Stephen is being such a dick or impressed that someone who strikes me as rather gutless had the balls to do that. Kenny turns it around by saying that at least his team's dessert didn't have a sack of sugar dumped into it, implying that nutrition might not be the hill on which Stephen wants to plant his flag. Amanda leaps into the fray, deflecting the sugar point by saying that no matter how light Kenny's dessert was, the vegetable course was pumped full of processed sugar in the form of peanut butter. A fair point, so the ball is lobbed over to the other team, where Ed slams it back by asking why sherry needs to be served to middle schoolers. Amanda says that it's not like she was serving it in glasses for the kids to sip. Still. I mean, I know sherry-braised chicken isn't going to have the children stumbling back to class drunk, but what a weird ingredient to insist on including. Gail picks up on that, asking why Amanda found it so important to use. Amanda says that she personally enjoys it. Gail: "I like it, too. There's a lot of things I like. I love vodka; I'm not cooking with it." Hahahaha! Best judge. You heard it here, first. The chefs are dismissed.

Well, that team war was not the classiest thing I've ever seen, but I've got to say, everyone made pretty good points. The judges deliberate. Angelo/Tracey/Kenny/Ed had the worst menu of the day. It completely lacked the nutrition called for by the challenge, and Kenny had the opportunity to fix that, but didn't. Ed's dish would be fine for a restaurant, but not for a middle school. The judges wonder if Angelo threw the challenge. I don't believe he did. Sure, he picked Kenny on purpose to give him a better shot of getting eliminated (except...well, you'll see), but I don't see him purposely making crappy food on the off chance that would happen. That is to say, he took out the insurance policy, but didn't burn down the house. Back in the Kitchen, Angelo is whispering to Tracey that he doesn't like Kenny. Ooh, what a shock. And speaking of middle school, how nice to see that immature backstabbing leaking back into the show, because Season 2 was so great.

The other team earned their way to Losers' Table with Amanda's chicken and Jacqueline's dessert. Even setting aside the sherry issue, Amanda's chicken was wholly unappealing. Ptom shocks the viewing party by saying that her dish struck the children the same as if she'd plopped a big turd on the table. Tiffany insists he's saying "tarragon", but I don't think so. Wow, I've never heard Ptom react to a dish with such vulgarity. I'm not offended or anything, just surprised, because he's never said something designed to be so gross about any dish, ever. Jacqueline's pudding had an unconscionable amount of sugar in it. Back in the Kitchen, Jacqueline tries to comfort herself by saying that at least her team had fruits and vegetables. Yes, but you lack something very important. You can't be set up against Angelo in a television-friendly clash of the titans. Not that that has anything to do with a cooking competition, right? Right?

The judges deliberate about the winning teams. Kelly's tacos were far healthier than regular tacos, and were fantastic to boot. The rest of the team's dishes were similarly impressive. The Andrea/Kevin/Tim/Alex team has a lot going for it, as well. The chicken was good, and cut out a lot of the unhealthy elements it usually has. The same goes for the cole slaw. The judges decide on a winner, and Padma goes back to summon Lynne, Tiffany, Kelly, and Arnold to the table. They're told they had the best lunch, and each chef describes what he or she made. Every one of them is roundly complimented before Padma asks Sam to announce the individual winner, who turns out to be... Kelly. Well, I'm all for it, though I doubt the rest of her team would agree with me. She admits in interview that her team was helpful, but is happy with her win nonetheless. She gets applause back in the Kitchen before passing along the message that judges want to see Kenny, Ed, Amanda, and Jacqueline again.

Hold it! Take another look at that list. Since statistics have featured so heavily in this episode, why don't we analyze it a bit more deeply than the producers would like us to? These four aren't one losing team; they're the two worst (or at least elimination-eligible) performers from two teams. So essentially, the team structure meant nothing. Hell, why not pull in weak performers from winning teams while you're at it? We've heard -- not once, but twice -- that if Kenny's team came up short, he'd have a 50% chance of being eliminated. And here he is, one of four chefs up for elimination. Why, his chance of being eliminated has just been halved! What possible reason could there be for that? Could it be that the tension between Kenny and Angelo, the two undeniable top dogs of the competition, must be preserved at any cost? Could it be that Ed didn't commit enough of a culinary sin to be eliminated, so a sacrificial lamb had to be scraped up from another team so that Kenny could be spared? Nah. That would never take place in this, a cooking competition, where food is all that matters. This is why I can never take very seriously those occasional comments I get about how I can't pass judgment on these contestants whose food I've never tasted. Once again, and do please try to remember this time...

One part cooking competition. Nine parts television.

So, let's get this charade over with. Kenny should have been more assertive in suggesting nutritious components. Ed had the same problem. Amanda's chicken was simply unappealing. Jacqueline's pudding was grainy and loaded with sugar. Jacqueline, since you are the designated scapegoat, please pack your knives and go. Two episodes. Two dessert eliminations. I wouldn't blame the chefs if they refused to ever touch that course again. In her final interview, Jacqueline says she wishes she had fought harder for more than 10% of the budget. She appreciates the challenge that sent her home, though, because it reminds her of what she should strive for. In the end, she takes her loss gracefully, saying that one has to live with the choices he or she makes. Don't worry yourself, Jacqueline. No matter how disappointing your dessert, it seems clear that your biggest mistake was not being Kenny.

Overall Grade: C-

Saturday, June 19, 2010

Primary Race

Top Chef - Season 7, Episode 1

Welcome back, food fans! Though Iron Chef is fun, I must confess that I was really ready for Top Chef to come back. I even sat through a bunch of Chopped episodes, despite my disgust for the entire judging panel (save Freitag and Guarnaschelli), just to get my culinary fix. This season comes to us from our nation's capital, which is a beautiful place, though I don't know much about its restaurants or cuisine. Seventeen chefs are here to prove that they have what it takes to wow the judges with their cooking prowess, and have enough of a crap personality to become a deeply-unsatisfactory winner. Hooray!

Padma introduces the opening montage. One lady wants to stick her success in her mom's face. One guy needs the money so he can support Asian orphanages. A bunch of people want to fight on television. In the best news ever, Toby Young has been booted from the judging panel, and has been replaced by Eric Ripert. I have no idea whom to credit for this change, but once I figure it out, the thank you card is in the mail. The prizes will sound familiar to you: A feature in Food and Wine, a showcase at their event in Aspen, and $125,000.

Opening menu. We always tend to go a bit crazy on the first and last episodes of a season. This time around was no exception. LabRat made a tomato/basil/mozzarella salsa to top some bruschetta, and used tomatoes and basil he plucked from our garden the day before. I'm on a wild dessert tear, and made buttercream cupcakes. Tim outdid us all with candy sushi. I swear I was looking forward to a nice unagi roll before I realized it was made out of Rice Krispie Treats and gummi worms. The viewing party's Top Chef drinking game is also in effect, so feel free to play along at home. Rule #1: Take a drink whenever someone refers to getting "thrown under the bus". The observant among you will have realized that someone already said it in the opening montage, so knock back that glass!

Ready to get acquainted? Tiffany Derry is from Beaumont, Texas. She started work at the International House of Pancakes, and by simply deciding to always work harder than the people around her, has risen to be an executive chef in Dallas. Of course, judging by my local IHOP, it's not difficult to work harder than the other employees, but I like her style. She thinks it'd be nice to be the first African American contestant to win Top Chef. Ah, yes. As I mentioned in the blurblet for this episode, we have an incredibly refreshing cast on our hands. Last time around, the entire pool was lily white by episode seven. This time, nearly half of the contestants are minorities, and there isn't just one token black guy that gets punted when all of the cannon fodder is out of the way. Stephen Hopcraft is one of those unfortunate souls who has been kidnapped at gunpoint and forced to abandon his family to go on a reality show. Tracey Bloom is an executive chef in Atlanta, Georgia. I predict Dawn French will play her in the movie. Kenny Gilbert has been cooking since he was knee-high to a grasshopper. He's confident.

The chefs arrive on the rooftop of one of the Smithsonian buildings to meet and greet. Alex Reznik enjoys the view, and is looking forward to cooking in D.C. Kelly Liken owns a restaurant with her husband in Vail, Colorado. I'm always in awe and a little bit suspicious of couples who spend all day working together, then all night living together. There is something to be said for alone time. Kelly tells us that she was voted one of the top young, female chefs in the country. That's quite a few qualifiers. Did you guys know I was voted the best Jewish, bee-fearing, crossword-loving, public-transportation-commuting, television blogger in the country? Lynne Gigliotti works for the CIA. Not that CIA. She's an instructor at the Culinary Institute of America, and tells us with a bit of deadpan cattiness that she's not some flashy young star with tattoos and weird hair, but her food tastes good. I'm taking a real shine to her already. Oh, and speaking of weird hair, we see her chatting with a guy who doesn't seem to have noticed the rats' nest that has formed atop his head. Curiously, I haven't seen a single tattoo. That's strange, given the human canvases we had last season.

Arnold Myint is an executive chef and owns three restaurants. Geez, why does he even need to be on this show? Oh, he's the one whose family supports all those orphanages. That explains it. Kids ain't cheap. His bio video includes him dancing around his restaurant like he's backup for Lady Gaga. He also talks about getting a wardrobe stylist and facial before he came on the show, so it seems safe to say that Team Rainbow has a new recruit. Kevin Sbraga puts together a frou-frou plate in his bio video, then talks about how New Jersey chefs don't get enough respect. He's familiar with Kenny, and is unnerved to be competing against him, pegging him as his biggest threat. I always love how these people try to rank competitors in a cooking contest before a single dish has been prepared. Jacqueline Lombard is the traditional contestant who is "here to prove" that a self-taught, catering chef can win the competition.

Timothy Dean is the hometown hero, as he was born and raised in D.C. Hmm. It'll be tough to refer to the Tim and Tiffany of the viewing party when there are a Tim and Tiffany competing. Frankly, it seems as though the racial difference is the simplest one, so thanks for the candy sushi, WhiteTim! BlackTim wants to win in honor of his late wife. That ought to shut down anyone attempting to trash talk him. Angelo Sosa is easily identifiable as the unavoidable, arrogant contestant. That doesn't mean he's not talented, but I'm already bracing myself for choppy waters ahead.

Padma and Ptom come out to greet the chefs. Padma was putting on some baby weight at the time, and it really suits her. The rats' nest known as John Somerville finds it surreal to actually be in this situation. If I saw that head bent over a plate of my food, I'd be calling for the check. Ptom always sounds stilted and uncomfortable when he's forced to recite reality show patter, and his opening blather is no exception, so let's just skip ahead to this season's first...

Quickfire Challenge. It's a replay of the mise en place relay race. The first round will be to peel ten potatoes, after which the last five chefs will be eliminated. The remaining contestants will have to dice ten cups of onions, after which the last four chefs will be eliminated. The third round will be to break down four chickens, after which the last four chefs will be eliminated. The final four will have to cook a dish with the aforementioned ingredients to win the challenge and its attendant prize of $20,000. Not bad! Kevin would like to win. No way, really?!? The chefs take their starting positions. Ready? Go! Ptom stands over everyone with his tinny rape whistle and monitors their work. Kenny immediately leaps into the lead. Amanda Baumgarten has apparently seen Season Five's relay race, and decides to pay homage by pulling a Richard and gouging her hand.

Kenny is the first to finish, followed by Angelo. Others soon fall into place. When the round is over, Arnold, Kelly, Jacqueline, Amanda, and Stephen are the five eliminated chefs. The wardrobe stylist and facial didn't help peel potatoes faster? Damn! Round two begins. As befits his role as The Arrogant One, Angelo is more intent on beating Kenny than anything else. It doesn't work. Kenny once again leads the pack. After the onion settles, we meet Andrea Curto-Randazzo just in time to see her eliminated. Some guy we haven't met, along with Tracey and John are also cut. Round three begins. The whistle's note is barely done reverberating before Kenny is done yet again. He's followed by Angelo, Tim, and Kevin, so Lynne, Tiffany, Alex, and some lady we haven't met yet are out. In fact, they won't bother to introduce her for the whole hour, so let's do it now. Tamesha Warren, America. America, Tamesha Warren. Alex is mad, because he "was a quarter of a chicken away from $20,000". Well, sure. Who among us hasn't said that at some point in our lives?

After the commercials, we go into the final round. The final four chefs have half an hour to throw their dishes together. Tim works on a potato gallette with chicken and fresh herbs. Kevin is making a poached, boneless chicken wing in chicken broth with the onions, some potatoes, and mushroom. Kenny goes for Moroccan spice chicken two ways. He wants to show the other chefs that he's the alpha male of the group, but Lynne is more interested in cajoling the winner into buying them booze. I know it's only the first episode, but so far, every word out of her mouth makes me like her more. Angelo makes roasted chicken with a sauce of curried onion jam and potato noodles. Time winds down, and the chefs wrap up their preparations.

Padma and Ptom go down the line, then pronounce judgment (with a lovely shot of the Capitol in the background). Tim's dish had too much cream. Kevin's broth was too salty. That leaves it between Kenny and Angelo, which it will probably be for the remainder of the season. I hope there's a surprise or two down the line, because we really don't need another season of Golden Child domination. The ultimate winner of the challenge and the money is... Angelo. He's very pleased, saying that he'd like to win every single challenge. Golden Child status aside, I have the feeling that he's going to be disappointed on that score sooner rather than later.

Elimination Challenge. Padma explains that since they're in a place that represents all Americans, the chefs will be making a dish that represents where they're from. Hilariously, we see a proud Canadian flag waving in the background as she says this. The chefs will be serving 300 guests at the annual Cherry Blossom Festival. That sounds fun, although I find it a bit weird for the first challenge to be catering, because that's really not the best venue for the chefs to put their best, representative dishes forward. Ptom says that the chefs will be broken into four groups, and that within each group, someone will be up for the win, and someone will be up for elimination. The final four chefs of the Quickfire get to choose the chefs they'll be competing against in the mini-groups. Angelo gets to pick first, and the groups shake out to be:

Group #1: Angelo, Tiffany, Kelly, and John
Group #2: Kenny, Tracey, Lynne, and Stephen
Group #3: Kevin, Arnold, Amanda, and Jacqueline
Group #4: Tim, Alex, Tamesha, and Andrea

That leaves one odd man out, who's named Ed Cotton. He's miffed at being chosen last, and rattles off his impressive resume. Of course, he doesn't realize that being picked last would suggest the team-choosing chefs believe he's stronger rather than weaker, so he should probably leave "Critical Thinking" off of that CV. As the Quickfire winner, Angelo gets to place Ed, so he puts him in Kenny's group. The chefs will have $300 to shop, and four hours to prep, plus one hour to set up at the event.

The chefs head back to their living quarters, which turns out to be a beautiful townhouse. Rooms are divvied up via the time-tested method of sticking all the snorers together, although it looks like non-snorer Arnold may be stuck with log-sawing roommates. John kicks back and journals. I've freeze-framed the shot of his diary, and can make out "Tough nite sleeping as it always is in a big city. Lots of noise, lights, phones, and pillows that were a bit soft." What a goofball. Soft pillows are more of a distraction than sixteen roommates? And if you're going to take the trouble to write everything out, why not just go the extra letter and write night? His diary anticipates an upcoming challenge. Ya think? He also mentions something about the Easter Egg Roll at the White House, and Obama throwing out the first pitch at a baseball game. He interviews that he wants to "give the judges a piece of who [he is]." I'm sure anyone he's prepared food for without a hairnet has had a piece of him.

Shopping. Everyone floods the meat counter, because no matter what part of America you hail from, your food had better contain something that used to have a heartbeat. Jacqueline stocks up on chicken liver and spills apples all over the floor. John grabs a bunch of store-brand puff pastry that he's never tried before. Back at the Kitchen, prep time begins. Several chefs have spent some of their food budget on decorative flowers. The viewing party becomes a sea of heads shaking in disdain. The Reliably Shitty Titles Department gets an early jump this season by misidentifying the four hour prep time as one hour.

Timothy gets started on rockfish to symbolize the Chesapeake Bay region. Alex's family is from Russia (holla!), so he works on a deconstructed short rib borscht with creme fraiche. Alex is kind of cute when he's not wearing those hideously unflattering glasses. Amanda giggles that Kevin was silly for choosing her, because she's going to totally destroy him. If she can avoid chopping off more of her hand, that is. Kevin works on a sous vide Pennsylvania lamb with a lemon pistachio marmalade and spring onions. Sounds good. Jacqueline is making a duo of chicken liver mousse to put into apple cups. She decides to make it lighter by omitting a lot of the butter fat. Sure, why not make a completely unnecessary change to the taste and texture of mousse? It's not like you're being critiqued by a French judge or anything. Angelo has Arctic char with shallots, chili tapioca, and a smoked bacon froth. John is from Michigan. LabRat rolls his eyes. Apparently, they've got some good maple sap up there, so John is making a maple mousse Napoleon with macadamia nuts and vanilla sauce.

Tracey sizes up Stephen's food. He's making a potato-crusted ribeye to symbolize Ohio. Sounds good to me. It does not sound good to Tracey, because the only food served between New York and Las Vegas is pig slop. What a twat. Kenny is representing Colorado with a cinnamon-coffee-rubbed trout with a black bean mole, goat cheese polenta, and quinoa.

LabRat: "Ah, yes. When I think of Colorado, I always think of mole and quinoa."

Meanwhile, John has already ruined his macadamia nuts by setting the oven incorrectly. I hate to keep making fun of him, because he seems like a lovely guy, but come on. I need something to work with here. If a reality show competitor wants me on their team, being nice is great, but they also have to be either competent or funny. Miraculously good-looking doesn't hurt, either. Where was I going with this idea? Oh, yeah. John's a mess. Jacqueline decides not to strain her chicken liver puree. She calls this "risky", but a "safe bet". Um. Do these sentences not pass through some sort of logic filter before they leave her mouth? Time runs out, and through the magic of television, we arrive at the event hall. The chefs do their final preparations. Jacqueline discovers that the mousse has not magically strained itself on the trip over, and is grainy. She tries to cook it down to a smoother texture.

Guests begin to arrive. Serving gets underway. The judges stride in, led by Padma's newly-swelled breasts. She, Ptom, Gail, and Eric head for Amanda's table first. Amanda has made neo-classical Californian food. Bleh. It's a red snapper carpaccio with clementines, sencha oil, and a daikon/caraway gelee. Arnold explains that he's from Nashville. So, seafood? I'm sorry, is it too soon for that joke? Arnold also has a Thai background, so he's made a kaffir lime and basil cake with a palm sugar anglaise, and a "Myint" julep. That's a pretty weak tie to Tennessee, but it looks like a nice dish, overall. Kevin presents his lamb. Jacqueline explains that she's made a low-fat chicken liver mousse. Gail is already horrified by the idea. Tasting #1. Amanda's fish is messy and underseasoned. Kevin's lamb is tender and tasty. Jacqueline's grainy mousse is universally disliked. Arnold's dish isn't discussed on camera.

Commercials. As we return, Bravo sneaks in a shot of a gay couple holding hands on their way in to the festival. Don't let any military personnel see you! Stephen has accented his potato-crusted ribeye with a celery root puree and a scarlet stadium mustard vinaigrette. Heh. I like that stadium mustard touch. Ed is from Boston, and has made sauteed cod cakes with Boston baked beans and a shaved fennel salad. Lynne is from the New York area, and has a corn-camembert ice cream on waffles, with a bacon-praline and caramel sauce. Curiosity about that corn aside, it looks wonderful. Tracey is from Atlanta, and has made stone-ground grits, with rock shrimp and a maple cheddar sauce. Kenny has the aforementioned trout. Tasting #2. Tracey's shrimp is bland. How can that be?!?! She's from a city!!!!!! Ed's cod has too much breading. Stephen's ribeye just tastes like deep-fried anything. One of the guys from The Bachelor didn't like it either, as if anyone gives a good goddamn what he thinks about anything. Kenny's is the only one to get a positive reaction (although Lynne's food isn't mentioned). Looks like he chose his "team" well.

Alex presents his borscht. Tamesha finally gets to open her mouth. She's from Barbados originally, and has made a jerk chicken sphere on top of polenta, with mango, papaya, and jicama. Andrea was inspired by Miami Italian food. I wasn't aware that Miami had that many Italians. She's made pork with chorizo/potato gnocchi, calabaza squash, and an orange gremolata. Tim's pan-seared rockfish includes pickled leek, dill, and a grilled crostini, finished with ginger and sesame seeds. Tasting #3. Andrea's food is good, but has little to do with Miami. Alex's borscht is a big hit, both taste-wise and as a method of deconstruction. Tim's sauces are indistinct, and his fish had too thick a skin on it to cook well. Tamesha is ignored yet again.

Tiffany is from Texas, and wanted to give her food some Southern flair. She's made a Cajun shrimp and crawfish salad, with some chicken-fried tomatillos and a bacon-sherry vinaigrette. Yes, please. Kelly, who bragged earlier that she had this challenge in the bag because she cooks regional cuisine every day at her restaurant in Colorado, has made New York strip steak. As a dish to represent where she's from. In Colorado. A New York strip steak. Whatever. Anyway, it's crusted in spices, and served with fiddlehead fern and a wild mushroom sauce. Angelo represents small town Connecticut with his Arctic char. John presents his maple Napoleon. Tasting #4. Angelo's fish is great, though Gail and Ptom have a slight disagreement over the amount of dill in it. Angelo tells some guests that they can lick their bowls, but his pronunciation, along with a high level of background noise, makes it sound like Angelo just told a group of complete strangers to go lick their balls. Kelly's steak is well-seasoned. John's maple mousse is nothing but sugar. The judges taste no maple at all. Tiffany's food isn't mentioned. The event winds down.

Back in the Kitchen, the chefs settle in for the fret 'n sweat. Padma comes in and summons Kevin, Alex, Kenny, and Angelo to Judges' Table. They're told they are the top of their groups. That's three of the top four Quickfire placers. I guess Tim didn't do such a good job of choosing competitors. Gail's initial impression of Kenny's plate was that it needed editing, but she has to admit that it turned out to be extremely well-balanced. Kevin's was the exact opposite; it looked overly simple until the judges tasted it. The components of Angelo's dish all made themselves known, and were all wonderful. Alex did a great job of deconstructing his borscht. Eric gets to announce the winner, which is... Angelo. Wow, the rare double win! He's very proud of himself, saying that he's going to "set the presidents" for the whole season. I know we're in D.C., but precendents, Angelo. Unless this is just another weird speech pattern of his, and he really did want those people to lick their balls. No prize is given. Only the duty to inform the bottom four that they're wanted at Losers' Table.

Angelo tells the waiting chefs that the judges want to see Stephen, John, Tim, and Jacqueline. Tim is confused and flustered. The four of them trudge out to the dining room, where the judges inform them that they had the least successful dishes of the evening. Now, in the first challenge, the chefs have a unique opportunity not available in later challenges. This is probably the only episode in which "I thought I could pull this off, because X, Y, and Z, but here's why it didn't work out," could be accepted as a legitimate excuse. As long as you can articulately explain where you went wrong, you'll probably get a second chance. Let's see how these four handle it, shall we? Stephen's ribeye was so thin that it was destined to be overcooked. He says he thought he could crisp the outside so that the inside remained medium rare, but couldn't. Eric tells him his meat turned out like chicken nuggets.

Jacqueline had a bad concept from the beginning. Liver is supposed to be fatty. If you thought "this is risky, but a safe bet" was the most illogical, stupid thing she could ever say, prepare to be amazed. "I've never made these without my recipes. I've served this dish hundreds of times around the country." Oy. Does she do this a lot? "I wanted to stay clean, so I jumped in a mud puddle." "I'm a staunch Republican, so I voted for Bill Clinton." Ptom asks her if she's made it hundreds of times, or just served it hundreds of times. She tries to dance around that question by admitting it was underseasoned, but Ptom nails her, saying that's not what he asked her. She says she's made it hundreds of times, and Ptom wonders why she needs a recipe. She doesn't really have a response to that, muttering that it's not memorized. Well, I guess Jill can take heart. She no longer holds the record for the worst defense of her food.

John's food had no maple flavor and the puff pastry was soggy. John admits that buying pre-prepared pastry might not have been the right choice, but that it was just an instrument to bring the mousse up to the mouth. Double oy. Would that be the mousse that the judges just said they didn't like? Gail points out that the pastry made up a good third of the plate, so John can't really act like it was some inconsequential component. John says that he guesses that he just did something stupid. Triple oy. Tim liked his cut of rockfish, but Eric says that leaving the skin on made it chewy and unpleasant. Ptom brings up the fact that Tim had his choice of competitors, and here he sits at the bottom of his self-selected pile. Tim says he's let himself down more than the judges, but knows that he can put forth better food, given the chance. The chefs are dismissed.

Deliberations. The bottom four made a lot of mistakes. John not only had bad food, but buying pre-prepared dough doesn't fit the challenge parameter of representing himself. His cream was grainy and thin. Stephen had a bad idea when it came to preparation technique, and got caught up in his background story. Jacqueline had a better idea, but made a terrible mousse. The judges can't believe she used low-fat liver as a selling point. Tim's fish skin ruined everything. The judges reach a decision.

Interstitial. Some of the chefs spend the long wait during the fret 'n sweat playing games. Some of the other chefs disapprove. I fail to care.

Elimination. The bottom four chefs all had execution problems. Ptom tells Stephen that if "Cleveland rocks," his dish certainly didn't. I don't know who puts these terrible puns and attempts at acerbic wit into Ptom's scripts, but I wish they'd stop. He can't sell them. That's not an insult; he does well when he's simply explaining his reaction to something. They need to just let him be direct, and stop trying to make him a showman. Jacqueline's mousse was completely terrible. The only thing John represented was a first-year pastry student. Tim could have done a better job with his fish and a much better job representing his region. We go over to Padma for the chop. John. Please pack your knives and go. I sure am glad that there's a dessert iteration of this show coming up, because the contestants in this main version prove over and over again how hard they suck at it. Except for my girl Carla. Hootie!

John thanks the judges for the opportunity, and leaks some tears in his final interview. Aw. He admits that making a dessert on this show is always a big risk, which is why I wonder why he chose to take that risk on the first challenge. Play to your strengths first - then prove you can go outside of your comfort zone. He gets good-bye hugs back in the Kitchen, and tells us that he feels like he's let down his family and supporters back home. Oh, I wouldn't say that, necessarily. Some people just aren't cut out for this kind of contest; it doesn't mean they can't cook. Still, I have to admit that not having to look at giant, nasty dreads for the rest of the season is a definite perk.

This season on Top Chef: Washington. Running. Cooking. Holy shitballs. Yelling. Fighting. The CIA. This time, it is that CIA. Baseball. Boats. Rambunctious children. Crying. Cursing. Astronauts. Mike, for some inconceivable reason. Nancy Pelosi. Angelo is "literally going to be a sniper". AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH! That's it. I've decided that every time someone misuses literally, they owe me a dollar. I'll be a millionaire in five years.

Overall Grade: B